Yemen in Ramadan: A beacon of light

The country affectionately dubbed 'Happy Yemen' in Arabic was the first officially announced Arab country and has witnessed some amazing leaps forward in the past five decades. But traditions remain deeply rooted in Yemeni culture, and Ramadan celebrations are no exception.

Visitors are often astonished at how empty the streets and markets are during the day, and how these very same streets and markets overflow with life and boisterous activity come night-time. But this is actually the case all year round as working hours tend to start at 10 or even 11am - a way of life Yemenis would not readily give up.

The mountainous nature of this country, in the south-west of the Arabian Peninsula, means Yemen has a unique ritual for the first sighting of the Ramadan crescent moon. Children gather firewood once the month of shaaban starts and, on the night that the sighting of the new moon is confirmed and the start of Ramadan announced, a bonfire is lit in celebration and Yemen is said to become a beacon of light.
 
Another typical Yemeni tradition is Al Shaabanieh or Al Shabaneh. This ritual also takes place after the confirmation of the sighting of the crescent. The men flock to the mosques to welcome in the new month and sing religious songs handed down from generation to generation.

Iftar rituals in Yemen's cities are truly special. Just before the evening call to prayer, mosques are transformed into public meeting places where Yemenis gather within designated and specially prepared areas to set out their Iftar meals. Visitors and strangers alike are invited to join.

The Yemeni Iftar usually consists of Kabsa - aromatic rice with chicken or meat, Alseltah – a brown meat stew with a salsa of tomatoes, garlic, chillies and herbs, Al Aseedah – a salty porridge made of flour, yogurt and chicken or meat broth served with a chilli sauce, and and Al Sousi – a dish made of bread, milk and eggs, all specialties of the Yemeni cuisine. Yemenis also favour a dish called Al Shafout, made from special bread, water and milk. Al Sharbeh, another favoured dish, is prepared from wheat flakes mixed with milk and sugar, or with meat bouillon.

In villages, households often send food to the local mosques to be distributed amongst strangers and the less privileged. 

After Tarawih prayers, children head out to play, while adults gather in public spaces to play cards, dominoes and chess. Later in the night, adults gather in their majlis to socialise, discuss current affairs, sing religious songs and take turns to recite the Quran. The ritual lasts for about an hour, after which Suhoor, the meal served before dawn, is served.